Rome, Day 2, and the Pope!

For Day 2, we rose early, had a sumptuous breakfast, and headed out quickly for the Vatican! Today is the day we attended the General Audience with Pope Benedict XVI. We arrived at the metro stop by the Vatican, and joined the throngs moving into St. Peter’s square. We had to make our way to the Bronze Door to retrieve our tickets, which we had written to request back in November. We finally got there, just in time, and our tickets were waiting for us. Only one of us could walk up through the Bronze Door, and I got to do it. It was really cool to walk past the Swiss Guard and into the vast chamber, then down into a small room with one priest sitting, who took my name, and handed me our tickets. Then out through the door again, back into the square surging with people. We presented our tickets then to the guard in the square, and were allowed up to the front where seats were set up. We were very close to the front, maybe 30’ away. We met some very nice people there also, a group of Philippine pilgrims from San Diego. They brought an American Flag to hold up when the Pope called out his greetings to the American visitors, and they let us get a picture with the flag. Ed, one of the folks we met, was a former Vietnam Veteran, and his sons are both in the service now as well, and served in Iraq. He was a really kind person. They also attended an audience with Pope John Paul II previously, and told us about that.

Then, before we knew it, everyone started cheering, and standing up, and we stood too and saw the Pope coming by, blessing the crowd as he does. We were just a few feet from him. We shouted Viva Papa and cheered for him as he passed. He moved all through the crowd to every area, and then back up to the platform, where he took his seat, and the audience began. He read scripture, and spoke – initially in Latin, and then in each language represented in the crowd, repeating the same sentiments. With each language, an attendant would also read out to the Pope, in their native languages, a list of the visiting groups from the countries represented, and convey their good wishes to the Pope. Then, in his reply, in the language of those people, he would thank each of them by name, and ask God’s blessing on them. Of course, when the English section came, we cheered loudly to convey our thanks and excitement too. Some groups also sang songs of greeting they had prepared when they were called, and the Pope recieved each one.  Since David and I were not in any formal group, we were counted under the “many families and individual English speaking pilgrims present”, which he also welcomed. But we also cheered when our Filipino friends’ group was called. The Papal Audience was a real thrill, definitely one of the highlights of our trip.

After the English blessing, we waited patiently while each other language was repeated. In each language, he would translate the original remarks on the scripture. So imagine hearing a sermon and blessing not just in one language, but in 7 or 8! By the end of the audience, the sun was starting to heat up, even though there was a continual cool breeze, it started to get downright hot! Thank goodness I remembered to apply sunscreen on this day or I would have been burned.  But I was not.  We made it through to the end, and then, everyone together sang in Latin the Our Father (fortunately written on the back of our tickets!), with the Pope leading. After this, we were very happy to be able to make for the shade under the huge pillars that frame St. Peter’s Square (actually a circle...). We just relaxed in the shade for a few minutes, then got some water to cool off, and picked up some souvenirs and postcards, which we shipped from the Vatican post office.

After this, we went into St. Peters and were of course blown away by the beauty and vastness and ancient magnificence of that place. We saw the body of Pope John Paul II and other Popes, which are displayed in their mausoleums behind glass to honor them. And of course, we took lots of pictures (although I didn’t think it would be proper to photograph the bodies of the Popes, so we didn’t take those, although there is no formal prohibition against it).

We were going to attend a confession, but the English confessor was not available for a while, so we headed back out, and around to the entrance to climb the Cupola, to the top of the dome of St. Peters. My brother Joe and I did this before when we were kids, and it was a highlight then, so I definitely wanted to do it on this trip too.  David has never been before, so it was a “must do”. We trekked up the very long flights of stairs, which gradually narrow further and further, and start to lean more and more to the right, as you wind up the dome. Finally, we made it, panting and hot, to the top, and emerged into the cool breeze and spectacular view of Rome and the Vatican City below. We just marveled for a few minutes, and started taking some pictures, but then came across a small group of very merry fellow travelers, who were just taking some wine they had “smuggled” up the stairs in a 2 liter Coke bottle, along with some cups. I don’t know if it is forbidden or not, but as hot as we were, we did not decline. And what a treat it was. They were all laughing and cheering and so generous with us. And none of us understood the others at all!  But they insisted we take a glass, and we tried to speak in our various languages. We figured out the man with the wine was from Quebec, and the rest were from Italy, and possibly Germany, apparently a tour group who have been in a number of places around Europe. We got some pictures with our new friends, and the wine refreshed and cooled us as we wondered at the sites below.

Finally, we made it around the whole of the Cupola, and headed back down the stairs. At the bottom (still on top of St. Peters, but below the dome now), we saw our friends again, and waved, intending to head on down to the ground level, but they called us over again, and insisted we have another glass, since they had a lot left. And this time, the brought out bread, and sausage, and would not take no for an answer! So we thanked them as much as we could in the few words we could communicate, and we all enjoyed bread and sausage together with our wine. Then, before we finished, they also brought out a homemade zucchini quiche! At this point, we tried to refuse again, but they would not accept it, and insisted we eat up! So, we were fed heartily by these kind strangers who didn’t even speak our language, and on the top of St. Peter’s in Rome. What a wonderful time it was. We just laughed and ate and drank, and felt a true kindred spirit with our fellow man, even when language didn’t allow communication. After we all finished, we shook their hands with strong and warm two-handed shakes for all, and said our goodbyes, such that we could understand. Finally, we headed back down then, with just a little lightness in our steps thanks to the 2 full glasses of wine they gave us, and with our stomachs full and content with delicious food.

We walked around St. Peter’s some more, got some beautiful pictures of the sun’s rays falling on the cross at the central altar through the windows of the dome, and then at last headed out. We had planned to have lunch at that time, but were now full from the blessing we were given by our new friends, so we headed straight across the Tiber at Castel San d’Angelo, got some pictures there, and made our way through the narrow streets to Piazza Navona. Thank goodness for GPS, or we would have been lost completely in the twisting streets, which have been laid down over thousands of years, and literally have no rhyme nor reason most of the time! But thanks to some help from modern technology, we found our way right to this site, and sat by the fountain there and enjoyed the sights and sounds of street performers and the beautiful square. Then we got up and made our way a few blocks over to the Pantheon. We got the audio tour here, and it was a great value. We saw the tomb of Raphael, whose significance we didn’t fully appreciate yet at that time, but soon would. And we marveled at the ancient architecture from almost 2000 years ago that has stood all the time since then.

I found a deep new appreciation that I previously didn’t understand fully about the Church. They have often been criticized for taking over the pagan buildings and rituals of Rome and incorporating them into Christian rituals and places of worship, and I had always assumed it was simply in order to successfully propagandize the masses to accept the authority of the Church with minimal disturbance - something that does seem somewhat craven when understood that way. But seeing this ancient temple to all the Gods, now converted to a church for the last 1400 years or so, I realized that in fact, their inclusion of these things is perfectly appropriate for true Christian faith, which takes the good in the world, without destroying it, but leaves the bad behind. The barbarians came into Rome and destroyed everything they found, tragically. I wondered why they did this, and concluded they must have hated the Romans bitterly for the brutal wars that had been waged against them.  Many of the barbarians' mothers and fathers must have been killed by Roman slaughters in the past, and the only thought of the barbarians was to destroy this city and its heritage.  But despite horrible persecution of the Christians as well by the empire prior to Christianity’s ascendancy under Constantine, the Church wisely and graciously preserved all the treasures they could, while leaving behind the worship of their empty and licentious gods and their cruel rituals and human sacrifices.  They preserved the good that was there - that which came from man’s being made in God’s image, even the brutal Romans of that time. The magnificent architectural wonders and beautiful art, the Church saved to whatever degree was possible. I found this theme over and over in Rome, and it gave me a new appreciation for the history of the Catholic Church. Although there were dark times no doubt, which I personally consider the attempted subversion of the true purpose of the Church, it is clear that God’s grace was at work even through the dark times in the Middle Ages. What a legacy was preserved for us now, thanks to their wisdom. So I just have to thank God for them, and that I am blessed to be able to see and appreciate thousands of years later, the long history that came before us.

At the end of the day, we watched the last ray of sun disappear from the Pantheon’s grand opening at the top of its dome, and then made our way back through the streets, and finally to our hotel. We were quite exhausted, but thankfully, have a well stocked supply of Alleve! We got cleaned up at the hotel, went out for a delicious dinner at a little café on the Via Nazzionale, right by the hotel. It was around 10pm by the time we sat down, which is not late for Romans to eat, so was perfect. After this, we came back home and headed straight to bed.

The Bronze Door, where our reply from the Papal Offices instructed us to go to retrieve our tickets for the audience

Representing USA to the Pope!

Our first site of the Papa!  Out of focus slightly.

He passed within 30 feet or so of our position in the crowd.

Delivering his message and greetings to all the visitors, in each language, took about 2 hours!

Now a tradition, David gets a picture at a postal box for every country, here at the Vatican PO

Vatican PO happens to be at the foot of the Papal Apartments in this building, where he lives

Distorted panorama inside the Basilica, but still came out cool

List of all the popes going back to Peter

Light streaming through one of the domes at the entry to the Basilica (not the dome of St. Peter)

We thought we were near the top, but were about to learn it was much longer than we first imagined!

At the first landing walking up to the Cupola of St. Peters

The first landing heading up to the Cupola

Getting close to the top, the stairs become very steep and confined

At this point you are almost walking horizontally on the curvature of the dome, very steep and narrow.  Just keep moving!

Our new friends who shared smuggled wine with us at the roof of St. Peters - Jack, and others.  We knew about 5 words of each others' languages, but a great time was had by all.  They were so hospitable to us, sharing not just wine, but bread, sausage and even quiche!  When we tried to refuse, they would not allow us!  We were fed our entire lunch meal by these kind strangers.

Panoramic view from St. Peter's Cupola

Looking down on St. Peter's Square from the Cupola

Part of the Papal Gardens from above

Toasting on the top of the world

The coat of arms of Pope Benedict XVI

Another view on the Papal Gardens, cool cave like fountain at the back

At the base of the dome after coming down

The Apostles and Christ in the center, on the roof of St. Peter's looking down into the Square

Light streaming through the dome of St. Peter, falling onto the cross on the central altar

Me under St. Peter's dome, cool framing by two of the rays of light with one seeming to land on my head.  A miraculous sign?  Perhaps!  hahaha  We set the shot up that way though.  Unfortunately slightly out of focus.  :|

Light from the sun falling on the cross again, closer up

And again...  this time with David tiny in the foreground, amidst a sea of people

Two identical beautiful fountains adorn the Square

Castel San d'Angelo at the Tiber River

Piazza Navona

Vertical panorama of David in front of the the obelisk at Piazza Navona

First site of the church now located in, and preserving, the building formerly known as the Pantheon

The Sun makes a Robot Face falling through the dome of the Pantheon

The front of the Pantheon

View upon approaching the great doors

The Tomb of Raphael, in the Pantheon, which would take more significance for us tomorrow

A silver portrait of Mary with baby Jesus, done purportedly by the Apostle Luke, at the central altar in the chapel of the Pantheon.

We waited patiently for last light to fall through the dome.  This was taken seconds before the last ray of sunlight receded from the dome.

The Pantheon immediately after last light receded.

Intricate column we passed heading home to the hotel, about 150 feet high, with relief depiction spiraling up from the base, telling the story of Rome's foundation and ascendency

SPQR, "Senatus Populus Quo Romanus", meaning The Senate and People of Rome, and representing the sovereignty of these two entities taken as a whole, appears everywhere throughout the city.  This designation came to represent civil society in general, not just in Rome, but later, with SPQ, in other cities as well.